Scotch Broth & Potato Scones and Isle of Skye

On St Andrew’s Day


Once I had a precious person up in the Isle of Skye, off the northwest shore of Scotland. Scotch broth is one of my unforgettable memories with the person.

When visiting Skye, I usually take a coach which arrives late in the evening. She always waited for my arrival with her homemade Scotch broth on stove because it was my favourite.

She was like my grandma, and I just loved her. I liked spending time together – attending Gaelic service, chatting and watching telly by the fireplace with a nice cup of tea and some biscuits…. Even the silence for a wee time in dim light before retiring to the bedrooms –  only the sound of clock, light wind and rain around us, and a seagull noise far away – I liked a lot.

My cherished memories.

Ingredients

For the broth (for 4-6 servings)

1.7 ltr water
250 g lamb shoulder (without bones)
50 g pearl barley
1 bay leaf
100 g potato, diced
100 g carrot, diced
100 g swede (Swedish/yellow turnip, rutabaga), diced
100 g  white cabbage (leaves, soft inner stems and leaf stalks), chopped
100 g leek, halved and chopped (white portion only)
50 g fresh or frozen green peas
salt and pepper, to taste

St Andrew’s Cross?

For the tattie scones (8 pieces)

250 g floury potato
25 g melted butter, and more for frying
¼ tsp salt
1 tbsp buttermilk
70 g plain flour, and more for rolling
½ tsp baking powder
25 g grated cheddar cheese

Method

Scotch Broth

  1. Put the lamb, barley and bay leaf in a large saucepan with 1 liter water and bring to simmer. Cook over low heat for 60 mins, skimming off the scum.
  2. Pour in the rest of water and add the vegetables into the pan, then bring back to simmer. Cook for 20 mins or until the vegetables tender.
  3. Take the lamb out of the broth, cut into small cubes and return into the pan. Add the peas and cook until tender. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Note:
I didn’t skim off the fat for cold winters and for better flavour. Remove excess fat if you wish.
For better taste, let the broth stand overnight without adding the peas. Skim off solid white fat layer if desired.

Potato Scones

  1. Boil the potatoes until tender. Drain, peel, and mash thoroughly with the butter and salt. Stir in the buttermilk, then shifted flour and baking powder to form a soft dough. Add the cheese and mix well.
  2. Turn the dough out onto a floured surface. Knead lightly and divide into two equal pieces. Roll out to about 15 cm in diameter or about 4-5 mm thick. Cut into quarters and prick all over with a fork.
  3. Place on a hot greased griddle or heavy pan and cover. Cook over gentle heat for about 5-6 minutes or until golden brown and crisp all over on each side.

MUST Visit in SKYE

My photos cannot show you the beauty of Skye enough, so I downloaded some from isleofskye.com which gives you useful tips on the island.

Cuillin Hills (source: isleofskye.com Facebook page)

Old Man of Storr

Enjoy the walk up to the place where beautiful scenery awaits you. I also enjoyed cream tea – climbed up with a cream tea pack from Morrisons’ – at the foot of ‘Old Man’, whose face in profile you will see from distance on the main road.

source: isleofskye.com Facebook page
Can you see his face? (source: isleofskye.com Facebook page)

Neist Point Lighthouse

I had always wanted to see the site where some scenes of Breaking the Waves (1996) were filmed (also at the Quiraing), and eventually made it! Unfortunately, the weather was bad – no good photos at all – and it was quite hard to get to the lighthouse in the strong wind. Yet, it was still stunning! Hope you have a nice weather when visiting!

neist-point
source: isleofskye.com website
source: isleofskye.com Facebook page

The Quiraing

One of the most spectacular landscapes in Scotland. It has appeared in many films, which attracts lots of tourists to Skye. Actually, I had never seen such an amount of tourists in the island before, and neither had the islanders.

source: isleofskye.com Facebook page

Talisker Distillery 

Islay whisky is wonderful and I like its smoky, peaty and seaweedy flavour – love to visit the distilleries one day – but mellow Talisker gives me more comfort.

Made a visit in 2011

free sample(s) – I think this was 10 yr old. Also sipped Talisker 57° North (alc. 57% !! )

 

MUST Eat in SKYE

What a shame! The Harbour View closed down…. So I tried a newly opened seafood restaurant, Cuchullin in Portree. Their mussels and oysters, along with a dram of Talisker Port Ruighe (pronounced ‘Portree’, old Gaelic spelling), were satisfactory. Book a table to avoid disappointment.

If you are a seafood lover and hungry enough, try the seafood platter!

Cuchullin’s seafood platter (source: tripadsivor)

 

MUST Stay in SKYE

I’m afraid there is no accommodation I can recommend at the moment, because my fave B&B has stopped taking any guests. I miss their porridge and poached smoked haddock for breakfast…. I will post here if they go back to business again.

 

How to get to the ISLE OF SKYE

We don’t have to travel on horseback any longer like Samuel Johnson and James Boswell did in the 18th Century 😀

If you are not driving up to the isle, Scottish Citylink coach services are available.

  • Edinburgh – change at Inverness – via Kyle of Lochalsh – Skye: runs along Loch Ness – you might bump into the famous monster!
  • Glasgow – (a few via Glasgow AP) – via Fort William and Kyle of Lochalsh- Skye: drives through Glencoe

En route, both pass by (or stop for passengers) the most romantic castle in Scotland, Eilean Dona Castle near Kyle of Lochalsh.

Many films were shot in the castle – Made of Honor (2008), Elizabeth – the Golden Age (2007), 007 – the World is not Enough (1999), Rob Roy (1995) etc. (photo from Eilean Donan Castle website)

ScotRail offers more scenic journey.

  • Inverness – Kyle of Lochalsh (then Scottish Citylink onto Skye)
  • Glasgow Queen Street – Fort William (then Scottish Citylink)

From London to Scotland, night train travel is an option.

from my trip in 2010

Caledonian Sleeper for Inverness and for Fort William (Glasgow and Edinburgh routes also available) depart from Euston, not from Platform 9¾ at King’s Cross 😀

@ King’s Cross Station

Book in advance, and you can get a bargain berth.

Took the upper bed.
Scottish breakfast – morning delivery (included in the fare)
Advertisements

Cullen Skink (Scottish Fish Soup) and Glasgow

Cullen Skink – a Scottish gentleman told me about the unfamiliar dish long time ago.

near Old Man of Storr, Isle of Skye

Once I studied Scottish history. Unlike today, it was much harder to collect primary source records from outside the UK. One day an ad on the Scots Magazine I was subscribing caught  my eyes, then faxed an enquiry to the secondhand bookshop in Glasgow (email was not yet common those days!) . Very luckily,  the owner made his best endeavour for me and found out a useful material, which was more than I had expected, and besides, even a research book on my study!

catalogues he found for me
Scottish Lion Rampant on the back

In the following year, he and his girlfriend kindly invited me to their place for dinner while I was doing some research in Glasgow. At the table, he told me about his favourite Scottish dish and explained how tasty Cullen Skink is. The name sounded really weird to me (skink? stink?? stinky soup???), but it turned out some time later that he was absolutely right, and it attracted my appetite as well!

City of Glasgow's Coat of Arms
‘Let Glasgow Flourish’ : City of Glasgow’s Coat of Arms with its motto @ Loch Katrine – the waterworks linking the loch to the city was officially opened by Queen Victoria in 1859.

This is the story of Cullen Skink and I. The soup reminds me of him whenever I eat it, but unfortunately, I have lost his contact. I cannot say thank him enough because I couldn’t have completed my thesis without those materials, which gave me lots of ideas and helped to construct the argument.

Here is my recipe. I used smoked salmon in place of smoked haddock because salmon appears in Glasgow’s Coat of Arms (see the pic above)… I’m kidding 😀  The truth is that smoked haddock is not available here… tried fresh fish instead and even smoked it myself, but both were something different!  So I followed the one I had at a restaurant in Isle of Skye, and smoked salmon worked so well!!

 

cullen skink

 

Ingredients

(for 2-3 servings)

3 medium potatoes, peeled and diced
550 ml whole milk (ideally non-homogenised)
200 g smoked salmon
1 bay leaf
15 g butter
1 large French shallot (eschallot), peeled and finely chopped
1/2 leek, thinly chopped
50 ml white wine
2 tbsp sour cream
salt and pepper (to taste)
chives, finely chopped (to sprinkle)

 

cullen skink w/ Scots Magazine

 

Method

  1. Put the potatoes into a pan and cover with cold water. Bring to the boil over medium heat and cook until soft. Drain well and dry them out tossing continuously over medium heat. Take a third  out of the pan and set aside. Mash the rest and pour in 50 ml milk, then whisk for a few minutes on low heat or until fluffy.
  2. Place the salmon in a pan with 300 ml milk and bay leaf. Gently bring to the boil over medium heat. Remove from the heat and poach in the milk for 5 minutes. Take the fish out and strain the stock. Break the fish into flakes and set aside.
  3. Melt the butter in a frying pan on lower heat and sauté the shallot and leek until tender. Add the wine and simmer for 1-2 minutes.
  4. Pour the fish stock into a pot with the rest of milk, the sautéed leek mixture and the mashed potatoes. Blend well over medium heat and bring to the gentle simmer, then reduce the heat. Add the diced potatoes and the fish. Reheat gently for a couple of minutes but not overcook the fish. Stir in the sour cream and season to taste.
  5. Serve in a warm bowl with chives.

 

 

Cullen Skink @ View Restaurant
cullen skink @ the View Restaurant in Skye (March 2013) I will ask for the recipe next time 🙂

 

MUST EAT in Glasgow

Afternoon tea at the Butterfly and the Pig

afternoon tea @ the Butterfly & the Pig

 

MUST SEE in Glasgow

Architecture and designs by Charles Rennie Mackintosh

willow tea rooms
Another option for tea @ the Willow Tea Rooms

The Glasgow School of Art (NB: No visitor access to the interiors  due to the damage by fire in May 2014. What a disaster!!!!) and the Hill House (in Helensburgh – about 50 min train ride away from Glasgow Queen St Station. Check with ScotRail) are highly recommended!

 

Scotland’s favourite painting: Dali’s Christ of St John of the Cross

If you visit Kelvingrove Art Gallery and Museum to see the painting, you may want to have a stroll in beautiful Kelvingrove Park where the gallery located. The park was designed by Joseph Paxton who also designed the Crystal Palace for the Great Exhibition of 1851 in London. If you learn the history of the museum and the park – about Charles Rennie Mackintosh as well, you would also learn how Glasgow enjoyed its prosperity in Victorian and Edwardian periods.

cullen skink