Arros de Favas – Fava Bean Rice and Douro, Portugal

” he tried the chicken soup, which smelled divine. He tasted it and with surprised shining eyes looked up at me, … ‘It’s good!’ It was delicious, made from chicken liver and giblets; … on the table a dish overflowing with rice and broad beans. … He took another larger forkful. … Then he cried: ‘Excellent! … What a bean! So delicious!’ … Faced by the golden chicken roasted on the spit and by the lettuce … drizzled with a little mountain olive oil…, he finally roared: ‘It’s utterly divine!’ ”

José Maria de Eça de Queirós, The City and the Mountains

When I travel, I often read books and/or watch films of which stories are set in the destination in order to prepare for the trip and to boost my mood for the upcoming adventure. As for the Portugal trip in 2018, I had rewatched Night Train to Lisbon, and read The Sin of Father Amaro and The City and the Mountains by Eça de Queirós.

view down to the River Douro from “Casa de Tormes”

After three days in Porto, I got off a train at Ermida by the River Douro, en route to Peso da Régua, and took a taxi up to Fundação Eça De Queiroz. The foundation opens the estate, which inspired Eça de Queirósas to write The City and the Mountains, to the public as a museum.

Actually, Eça de Queiroz didn’t live in the estate, Quinta de Vila Nova, i.e. Quinta de Tormes in the novel. The exhibits in Casa de Tormes, such as the library with full of books, writing desk etc. which had belonged to Eça de Queiroz, were shipped from his last resident in Paris after his death.

There is a restaurant in the premises, which is a must if you visit the museum. Restaurante de Tormes serves ‘the first meal’ Eça de Queirósas or Jacinto, the main character of the novel, had when he arrived at the estate for the first time.

Of course, I ordered ‘the first meal’ menu – how could I have not? 🙂
It was a wonderful surprise that broa de milho was accompanied. Broa de milho, which I had sought in vain in Porto, is typical bread from northern Portugal made with cornmeal, wheat and/or rye flour.

The arros de favas was literally excellent and delicious!

arroz de favas com frango alourado (and vinho verde)

Having another appointment, I called the taxi back; then, a 10-minute drive took me to a small boutique winery.

One of the significant elements that make Quinta de Covela wines unique is its terroir: It is located in the southern edge of the Vinho Verde wine region, just close to the beginning of the Douro wine region, Baixo Corgo. The ‘Douro Verde’, as they call it, region has mix of continental climate and maritime influence; cold in winter, hot and dry in summer, and unlike in the typical Vinho Verde DOC, much less rainy.

The wine which impressed and attracted me most was their Avesso. Avesso is a white Portuguese native wine grape variety primarily planted in Minho, northern Portugal; however, you would not say it Vinho Verde when you sip their COVELA Edição Nacional Avesso.

Tasting Notes:
Colour: Silver with hints of straw.
Nose: Intense, yet delicate and complex. Citric fruit (grapefruit), floral,
herbal, tree fruit and dried fruit (sweet almonds). Marked minerality and elegance.
Palate: Dry, fresh acidity, excellent mouthfeel, elegant and long finish
that makes the mouth water. (Source: Qinta de Covela)

Tasting Notes:
Bright, citric color. Intensely fresh with subtle mineral character. Notes of zesty, citric fruits and meadow flowers. Dry and elegant. Nicely-balanced acidity and fruity, yet with a strength typical of the sun-soaked “Douro Verde” region. (source: Portugal Vineyards)

the arros de favas recipe isn’t from the book

Ingredients

(for 2 servings)

600 g water
¾ tsp fine sea salt
170 g fava bean, without pods

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
½ tsp garlic, minced
50 g onion, finely chopped
150 g risotto rice (I used Carnaroli.)
2 tbsp dry white wine
90 g chouriço* or salami, sliced
salt and pepper

(optional)
fresh coriander or Italian parsley to garnish

NOTE: * not Spanish chorizo but chouriço with less paprika and spice

Quinta de Covela also produces wine for Quinta de Tormes

Method

Bring a pot of the water to the boil. Add the salt and put in the fava beans and cook over medium heat for 3 minutes. Take the beans out of the water (retain the liquid to cook the rice) and immediately put into cold water to stop them cooking. Drain and peel the beans. Set aside.
In a pan, place the olive oil with the garlic and slowly heat on medium low. Put in the onion and sauté until translucent. Add the rice and stir constantly until the oil gets onto every grain, but don’t let the rice turn brown. Add the wine and stir until absorbed.
Pour in the 200 cc fava bean water, put in the chouriço/salami, and bring it to the boil over medium heat. Reduce the heat to low and gently simmer stirring occasionally. When the rice appears almost dry, add 100 cc of the liquid and repeat the process until the stock gets thick and creamy, and the grains become tender, with a little bite but no chalkiness. If the stock is running very low, add extra water.
Stir in the beans and mix well. Taste the rice and season with salt and pepper. Cook for another minute to heat through.
Garnish with the coriander or Italian parsley.

Pink Tonic and Pinhão, Portugal

The summer is still here (fed up with the heat though), so I made a summer cocktail to cool off. The cocktail is called Pink Tonic, which I came across after hiking in Pinhão, Douro Valley.

Three best viewpoints in Pinhão:

Miradouro Torguiano de São Cristovão do Douro

As for me personally, the view over Pinhão Valley was the best. My pictures can’t show enough, but the valley is like a doodlebug’s pit and the views of vineyards in steep slopes are amazingly spectacular!!

After tough hiking trails, walked through vineyards in gentle slope to cool down…

and ended up with a refreshing cocktail 🙂

writing postcards with Pink Tonic @ Quinta da Roêda, Pinhão

The base ingredient is Croft Pink produced by Croft, one of the original Port houses in the Douro Valley.

Croft Pink is rosé style of Port wine ‘made by a new technique which extracts fresh, fruity flavours and a subtle and delicate pink colour from limited contact with the skins of classic Port grape varieties, grown in top quality vineyards of the Douro Valley. The result is wonderfully fresh and vibrant, full of the rich fruit flavours of Port but with a unique and distinctive appeal. It has created the perfect opportunity for Port to be consumed in the warmer months of the year when Port may not otherwise be the drink of choice.’ – Croft product page

Ingredients

(for one tall glass)

70 ml Croft Pink
200 ml tonic water
ice cubes
lemon peel
2 mint leaves
lemon zest

Method

Pour tonic water and Croft Pink into a tall glass with ice cubes.
Add lemon peel and garnish with mint leaves and lemon zest.

High Tea in Lustleigh, Devon 2019

Just a quick post for National Afternoon Week in the UK.

(I have been hoping to come back to the blog, but my second job has forced me to work without any days off for over three months 😦 )

Last year, I stopped by Dartmoor National Park on the way back from Cornwall. At first I was going to see the place where The Hounds of Baskerville is set, however, it ended up with a lovely walk and high tea in so-called ‘the prettiest village in Dartmoor’.

This charming Lustleigh, located in the eastern section of Dartmoor National Park, is an ideal rural English village with many beautiful thatched cottages, narrow lanes and lush green woodland.

Wanted to have dinner with a pint at the pub.

Okay, it’s tea time!

They were happy to change one of two rolls to a crumpet.

To be honest, I am for the Cornish way (jam first), but followed ‘In Rome, do as the Romans do’ and enjoyed the scone with the Devon way (cream first).

Their Victoria sponge is also ‘cream first’!

How could I resist some more cakes? Their Devon apple cake was superb – takeawayed JUST one slice 😀

Lastly, don’t forget to visit the community orchard.

Hoping to come back to Lustleigh someday for its May Day celebration, the maypole dance and Morris dancing.

Lustleigh May Queen in 1958 (source: Lustleigh Community Archive)

Tokyo Day Out 2019: Cherry Blossoms, Frank Lloyd Wright, Afternoon Tea

Tokyo and surrounding areas had unseasonable snow yesterday: snowing in the central Tokyo at the end of March was the first time in ten years and in 32 years more than one centimetre snow accumulation. The scene of blooming cherry blossoms in a snow fall was very atmospheric.

Unfortunately, however, I have no cherry blossom viewing gatherings this year in order to avoid crowds, so I am posting about the one we enjoyed last year.

The theme was “architecture and cherry blossoms”, and I picked up the site of 自由学園明日館 Jiyuaakuen Myonichikan near Ikebukuro.

Myonichikan, literally means ‘house of tomorrow’, is the original building complex of Jiyugakuen founded in 1921 based on a Japanese couple’s educational philosophy. Their idea impressed American architect Frank Lloyd Wright (1867-1959), who was working on the Imperial Hotel in Tokyo at that time, to make him undertake the design of their new school.

“Myonichikan consists of four buildings; the main, the east, and the west buildings and the auditorium. The main building stands with the two classroom buildings to the west and the east forming a U-shape. ”

(source: Jiyu Gakuen Myonichikan)

Myonichikan “represents Wright’s iconic architectural style of what has been called ‘the Prairie Style’, in which the height of the eaves was kept lower to emphasize the horizontal line. The interior was designed in the skip-floors elevator arrangement, one that leads us from room to room, then to the outside space through the change of the height. Moreover, one can find notable traits that represent Wright’s cherished concept of ‘the organic architecture’ everywhere, such as usage of Ohya stones, a design element that was frequently used for the Imperial Hotel, and the unique geometric design based on the hexagon applied to window frames and furnitures, and so forth.”

(source: Tokyo Cultural Heritage Map)

The main campus of Jiyugakuen was relocated to the suburbs in 1934, and today, Myonichikan is open to the public and often used as a venue for wedding ceremonies, concerts and lectures.

Then we move to the Classic House at Akasaka Prince in Tokyo Grand Terrace Kioicho.

This European style building was originally the residence of Yi Un (1897ｰ1970), the last crown prince of Korea, constructed in 1930, and then adapted as the Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka opened in 1955 and used until 2011.

The former residence of Yi Un and Grand Prince Hotel Akasaka Old Building was appointed as one of Tokyo Metropolitan Area-designated tangible cultural properties in 2011, and it is operating as a restaurant, a banquet hall and a wedding venue.

Last but not least, we enjoyed afternoon tea at La Maison Kioi in the Classic House Akasaka 😀

Hoping we all can enjoy cherry blossom viewing next spring.

Bucatini con Broccoli Arriminati – Broccoli Pasta and B&B in Palermo

Today, I am reposting the Bucatini con Broccoli Arriminati recipe because it is one of the most popular one in my blog, and some come to see almost every day – so far, more than 1,600 views in total.

Finally, found Sicilian broccoli in Japan!

And also, I’d like to introduce a brand-new breakfast in Palermo. B&B Bandiera 77 located near the Teatro Massimo is their second B&B that my Sicilian friends have opened up recently. Here is the review on Tripadvisor. I must stay next time in Palermo!! Oh yes, the Bucatini recipe is originally from them!

——————–

I always stay at the same bed and breakfast in Palermo. It is located in a convenient area, spotless and comfortable to stay at, but these are not only the reason. I like the Sicilian couple who runs the B&B, so I go back to see them.

I had asked them for a Sicilian recipe to post here, and upon arrival, they gave me a typical one in Palermo: Bucatini con Broccoli Arriminati.

Arriminato means ‘stirred’, and broccoli arriminati is literally translated to ‘stirred broccoli’. This is a pasta dish with broccoli sauce made by stirring well.

Hang on! Cauliflower is called broccoli in Sicily! This is confusing…. The bright green colour of the vegetable confuses us, too! It’s not ‘broccoli’ but greenish cauliflower what we call! To say precisely, it is cauliflower pasta!

So I made it with white cauliflower, and with broccoli (not Sicilian one!) to colour the sauce as green cauliflower and Romanesco broccoli or broccoflower are not easily found here. Now it can be properly called ‘broccoli’ pasta 😀

Bucatini is traditionally used for this dish. It is served with toasted breadcrumbs on top, which is so called ‘poor man’s Parmesan’. Raisin and pine nut are typical ingredients used in Sicilian dishes, where we can see Arabic influence over the island.

I made some alterations, but basically followed the ingredients and instructions they gave me. I’m sure this is going to be one of my rotation recipes when cauliflowers are in season!

Ingredients

(for 2 servings)

50 g bugget (leftover or stale bread is ideal), finely grated
1 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 liters water
2 tsp salt
180 g cauliflower (about 1/2 head)
80 g broccoli (about 1/4 head)
200 g bucatini (I used no.6)

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
100 g onion, finely chopped
2 fillets of anchovy
20 g raisins
20 g pine nuts
blackpepper (to taste)
a pinch (1/16 tsp) of saffron powder

Method

For toasted breadcrumbs: Heat the oil in a frying pan and add the breadcrumbs to toast on low heat, stirring consistently for 5 minutes or until crisp and brown.
Bring a pot of the salted water to the boil. Put in the cauliflower and broccoli and cook over medium heat until easily broken apart (about 10 min for broccoli, 15 min for cauliflower). Remove from the water and set aside. Retain the cooking liquid to cook the sauce and pasta.
For the sauce: In a pan, heat the olive oil and sauté the onion over medium heat until translucent. Put in the anchovy, and break with wooden spoon or such. Add the raisins and pine nuts to fry for a few minutes. Put in the boiled cauliflower and broccoli, then mash and mix by stirring. Season with the pepper, add the saffron and 100 cc cauliflower/broccoli water, and cook gently on lower heat for 5 min stirring occasionally. Make sure it doesn’t get too dry – add some more cooking liquid if required.
Meanwhile, add some water to the cauliflower/broccoli water and bring back to the boil, then cook the pasta until just before ‘al dente’ (bucatini no.6 for about 6 min).
Transfer the pasta into the sauce. Mix well all together while cooking for 1-2 min. Taste it and add salt if required.
Sprinkle with the toasted breadcrumbs on the top when serve.

baked version — Baked version with short pasta (baked at 170C for 15 min)

Also made seafood pasta with broccoli (Pasta con Broccoli, Scampi e Gamberi ) – without raisins, pine nuts, breadcrumbs – while in Sicily

Bed &Breakfast in Palermo

La Via Delle Biciclette – You will find where the name comes from.

Tokyo ＆ Yokohama Feb. 2019

One of my relatives came up to Tokyo last month, so I showed him around a bit of Tokyo and Yokohama.

First we had lunch at Nemuro Hanamaru, a standing sushi bar on the basement of Tokyu Plaza Ginza. There is another Hanamaru, which is a sit-in kaiten-zushi restaurant, on the 10th floor, but we chose the bar to avoid a queue.

A piece is inexpensive and ranges from 108 to 358 yen – some, like today’s special for example, are around 500 yen – although the sushi toppings are fresh and flavourful. They are mostly from Hokkaido, and some of them are local fish and shellfish which are unfamiliar to outsiders. My relative ate a lot and I finished off with my favourite anago, and our bill came to ¥4,606 (equivalent to $42, £32, €37)!! I will definitely go back when desperate for sushi!

Then we headed to Hama Rikyu Gardens, or Hama Detached Palace Gardens, adjacent to the River Sumida where enters Tokyo Bay, which was originally built as a feudal lord’s Tokyo residence in 17th Century.

Passing by ex Tsukiji Fish Market on the way, we remembered that we had nice sushi breakfast last August.

Iwasa Sushi reviews on Tabelog Tripadvisor and Yelp

The fish market had moved to Tokyosu, but Tsukiji Shijogai is still busy with lots of tourists. Some restaurants remain but Iwasa Sushi had also moved to Toyosu.

At this time of the year, Hama Rikyu becomes more popular for cherry blossom viewing.

(c) Tokyo Metropolitan Association — source and more info. amuzen

When we visited the gardens, rape flowers were in full bloom and smelled honey – actually, busy bees were working hard.

And plum trees also.

After a stroll, we took a Tokyo Water Bus (more info on Tokyo Cruise and Tokyo Mizube Cruising) to Odaiba.

On the following day, I took him to Yokohama Chukagai, or Yokohama Chinatown.

The Chinese dishes we had for dinner were so-so, so I don’t mention the name here. Instead, I recommend 翠香園 Suikoen where I usually go for their 肉糸湯麺 samma-men, which is a regional specialty ramen served in Kanagawa prefecture.

Suikoen’s samma-men (source: Yokohama Noren-kai)

We had a nice time together in Tokyo and Yokohama for three days. There had been some ‘distance’ between us although we are close kin. However, we became a bit closer when we got together in Tokyo last summer, and I am looking forward to doing some more Tokyo sightseeing in the near future 🙂

Bolo Rei and Porto, Portugal

Happy New Year everyone! Hope you all have a great year!!
Here is my first post in 2019 with the revised Bolo Rei recipe for Epiphany. Now I’m writing this eating the cake – too good to stop!

Upon arrival in Porto after Lisbon and Coimbra, I launched another eating project.

The first target was Pastel de Nata as I wrote last October, and Bolo Rei was the next. I had always wanted to have the authentic one since I tried the recipe and posted it here two years ago.

Bolo Rei, or King Cake (or King’s Cake, Kings’ Cake), is a traditional Portuguese cake typically eaten during Christmas time until 6th of January. My visit being in September, I had done lots of research in advance – as usual – if it is obtainable even in summer.

I explored the town, finding five bakeries/pastry shops with Bolo Rei. Can you imagine how much I got excited when came across the cake for the fist in my life? 😀

I had assumed that Petúlia might sell Bolo Rei all year round, and I was right! It has a tea room attached, so I enjoyed a slice along with proper English black tea – they have Tetley’s. Yay!

Their cake was so scrumptious that I couldn’t resist to bring a whole – about 2 kilos – back to Japan with me. I am sure the fragrant smell, especially of Port wine, filled in the train carriage and aircraft cabin tempted the passengers 🙂

I had another ‘things to do’ in Porto: to do Portuguese traditional grocery store hopping, and also to purchase marmelada, or quince jelly/paste, and some stuff for Bolo Rei.

Portuguese traditional grocery stores are a wonder! You will be fascinated by the wide variety of products: deli, traditional Portuguese foods, products from the local, ex-colonies including Brazil etc. I wish I had had more time to examine each item!

The names of some stores, as well as the commodity such as spices, teas, etc., are reminiscent of Portuguese discoveries derived from their maritime exploration.

A Pérola do Bolhão with an impressive art nouveau style façade

Pérola means pearl, which was one of the luxury goods through the trade with the Orient and South America in those days.

Chinesa means Chinese.

Japão is Japan.

O Pretinho do Japão sells good selection of tinned fish, Port wines, teas and coffees, and I bought a herbal tea. They have a cafe with a lovely garden at the back.

Comer e Chorar Por Mais – The hams, sausages, cheeses etc. looked good.

Comer e Chorar Por Mais didn’t have *Broa*, Portuguese cornbread, but the rye bread was really tasty.

My favourite was Casa Natal. The interior space is beautifully organised – the walls are covered by wooden cabinets and shelves filled neatly with goods. One of the shopkeeper was really friendly and helped me to choose the proper ingredients for Bolo Rei, which were in good quality and I liked the dried figs from Douro Valley most. Oh, marmelada was nice as well.

Talking of Porto and Bolo Rei, Port wine is a must! I bought a bottle of Dow’s 10 Year Old Tawny not only for the cake but also for Stilton cheese 🙂

3 Port wine tasting @ Quinta do Bomfim in Pinhão, Douro Valley

Dow’s 10 Year Old Tawny @ Quinta do Bomfim

Thank you for waiting. Here is the recipe, which needed to be revised because I had experienced the genuine taste!

Ingredients

For the dough
70 g assorted crystallised fruits (incl. 20 g orange), to chop if necessary
35 g raisin
30 g dried fig, roughly chopped
4 tbsp Port wine*
1 tbsp dark rum*

80 g full fat milk, lukewarmed
5 g honey
3 g instant yeast**
125 g strong white flour

50 g unsalted butter, room temperature
30 g caster sugar
15 g honey
2 g sea salt
2 egg yolk, whisked and room temperature

100 g plain wholemeal flour
25 g strong white flour
3 g instant yeast**
½ tsp lemon zest
½ tsp orange zest
20 g sliced almond, lightly toasted
20 g walnut, roughly chopped
20 g pine nuts
(optional: a dried broad/fava bean)

For the topping
egg white
crystallised fruits of your choice

For the glaze
20 g honey
15 g water

For the decoration
icing sugar

* If you use good quality Port wine, add 5 tbsp without rum.
** Use yeast for doughs high in sugar/sweet breads (I used SAF Golden Instant Yeast).

Method

Soak the crystallised fruits, figs and raisins in the Port wine and rum for 1-2 hours. Drain well and set aside.
Dissolve the honey in the lukewarm milk, scatter in the 3 g yeast and allow to sit for 7 minutes. Stir well and leave another 8 minutes.
Tip the 125 g strong flour into a bowl, and pour in the yeasty milk to mix. Knead by hand for 15 minutes or until smooth and elastic. Pour in some more lukewarmed milk a little at a time if required. Shape the dough into a ball, place in a bowl, and cover with a damp tea towel or clingfilm. Allow to rise in a warm place for 45-60 minutes or until it has doubled in size. Punch down the dough gently to degas. Shape into a ball, place back in the bowl and cover again and sit for 10 minutes.
Mix well with the wholemeal flour, the rest of strong white flour and the instant dried yeast, and set aside. In a large bowl, beat the butter, sugar, honey and salt until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolk a little at a time, beating well after each addition. Fold in the flours to combine. Then tear the dough ball into small pieces and add in the batter making sure it is evenly blended together, using your hand and create a sticky dough. Knead by hand for 20-30 minutes or until smooth and elastic. Put in the zests and soaked fruits, and knead for another 5 minutes or so. Add the nuts (and a fava bean) and lightly mix until all the fruits and nuts are evenly covered by the dough.
Line a baking tray with baking paper and scatter over some strong flour. Scrape the dough on to the tray, shape into a round loaf (about 20 cm in diameter), and make a hole in the centre. Place a cup or something in the middle so that the dough maintains its wreath shape. Cover with a damp tea towel or clingfilm and leave to rise in a warm place for about 90-105 minutes or until it has 1.5 times in size.
Preheat oven to 190℃. Brush it all with the egg white and decorate with cristallised fruits. Covered again and allow to sit for 15 minutes. Uncover and bake for 25-30 minutes in the oven. Cover with aluminium foil if the surface becomes too brown (Do not burn the fruits!).
Meanwhile, to make the glaze, put the honey and water in a small pan over low heat. Stir until completely melted and slightly thickened. Remove the cake from the oven, and carefully lift out and place on a wire rack. Immediately brush the honey over the cake. Cool completely and dust with the icing sugar.
Store in an airtight container any leftovers, but finish in a couple of days. (To revive leftover or slightly stale Bolo Rei, toast lightly.)

Hope you like my Bolo Rei!

For the people who is going to Porto at Christmas time, here is ‘Where to buy Bolo Rei in Porto‘ tips.

Christmas Markets in Germany and Riga 2017

It has been too hectic for the last three months to come here and read your posts – sometimes I had to work at weekends. Sorry guys, but I will try to catch up during this festive period.

The photos below are from my Christmas market tour last year. Hope you all have a very happy holiday season!!

Dresden

I was dreaming of a white Christmas…, but no snow!

If you are going to purchase a Dresdner Christstollen, try Schreiber ‘s!!

Nürnberg

Rothenburg ob der Tauber

Snow in Rothenburg!!!

München

Made a visit to Munich on the day of Krampus!

Augsburg

Also chose the day to see Das Engelsspiel.

Koblenz

Bad Neuenahr-Ahrweiler

Ahrweiler Markt

Riga

No snow even in Riga!

Believe or not, but it is said that the first ever Christmas tree was set-up and decorated in market square, Riga in 1510.

Monument to the First Christmas Tree on the plaque marking the site of the first New Years (Christmas) tree ceremony

What is your favourite? – Pastel de Nata

As far as I can remember, I had 10 Pastel de Nata(s) during the trip:

Six in Lisbon, one each in Coimbra and Porto, one from a gift box and the last one served with an in-flight meal.

Nata and Hóstias Conventuais for breakfast @ Pastelaria Briosa, Coimbra

Somehow, I had none whilst in Lisbon 10 years ago, so I was going to try as many as possible.

And besides, I had planned to participate in a nata baking class in Porto, however, it was cancelled on the very day of the activity…. It was really disappointing and ruined a part of my trip…. What a shame!!

So I am writing about the pastries I had in Lisbon instead of the baking class. Those nata places are:

Pastelaria Santo António

My top three pastel de natas are…

A Nate de Lisboa
This place may be less popular than others, but I liked theirs most. The crispy thin layers of the pastry case and the smooth and creamy custard are very harmonious. I loved the thinner flaky layers.
Manteigalia
As good as A Nata de Lisboa’s, but the crust is thicker. If you prefer crunchy one, this would be for you. and the filling are well balanced.
Pastéis de Belém
Took it away and had on the following day, so it may not be fair to compare with others. Still very good even though it was not fresh.

Me personally, the rest were so-so or the crust and custard filling, which was too rich, didn’t go well together.

I had 10 pastel de natas, but not enough!!! I would have had more if I hadn’t had other eating projects!! 😀

What I regret most is that I missed Aloma’s. I was going to buy one at Lisbon Airport, unfortunately, however, I had to rush to the boarding gate….

Aloma

Have you tried pastel de nata in Portugal? What was your favourite? Let me know!

Umeshu Matsuri 2018 – Plum Wine Festival in Kyoto & Tokyo

From time to time, some people visit my blog post on Umeshu Matsuri 2017, so I am reposting it with the links, dates and venues for 2018. It may be better to try Friday to avoid crowds and disappointment – last year, too many weekend visitors prevented my friends from stepping in!

in Kyoto:
14-17 September 2018
venue – Kitano Tenmangu Shrine

in Tokyo:
5-8 October 2018
venue – Bentenmon, Ueno Zoo in Ueno Park

If you would like to purchase umeshu while in Japan, have a look in department stores. In Tokyo, visit 検校（Kengyo）at Ginza – I have never tried, however, you can buy not only a bottle but also a glass of regional sake, umeshu, wines, beers etc. at their bar.

Ginza Sakagura Kengyo 銀座酒蔵検校
Kengyo on Tabelog (in English)
Kengyo website

Umeshu Matsuri – Plum Wine Festival in Tokyo (posted on 7 October 2017)

If you live or happen to be around in Tokyo this long weekend, why don’t you pop in Yushima Tenmangu, or Yushima Tenjin to sip umeshu, Japanse plum wine?

Umeshu (梅酒 : 梅 ume = plum, 酒 shu = sake) is made by steeping unripened Japanese plums in alcohol and sugar to allow the flavours to infuse. It is called plum ‘wine’ in English, but it is liqueur type of alcohol.

Over the weekend, the Umeshu Matsuri, Plum Wine Festival is held at the Shito shrine, which is famous for its beautiful plum blossoms in spring. Beer is nice – Oktober Fests are thrown here and there around this time of the year even in Japan, but it may be a good idea to try this aromatic, sweet and plesantly sour liqueur.

At the entrance, purchase 18 token coins for 1,600 yen (advanced ticket was 1,400 yen). 1 or 2 coins are required for a small cup of umeshu (about 30 ml/cup), but 3 for some or award winning ones. Okay, now you are ready to sip. Enjoy and find your favourit(s) out of 156 umeshus from sake breweries all over Japan.

made with distilled alcohol – from Hiroshima

made with sesame *shochu –* from Fukuoka

Kosher umeshu – made with *sake* – from a brewery in Kyoto (established in 1673!)

blended with *yuzu* juice – from Wakayama

blended with *gyokuro* green tea – from Kyoto

*nigori* umeshu from my favourite sake brewery in Hyogo producing *Kotsuzumi* which I mentioned on Kinosaki Onsen post (left: more fruity and tastes like peach juice right: with plum pulp and full flavour)

If you find your favourit(s), you can buy it/them!!

I bought a bottle of 梅申春秋, Baishin Shunju from my fav brewery!

left: *Baishin Shunju* / right: *Daku Daku*

Umeshu Matsuri
Facebook page
Period: 6th – 9th October 2017
Venue: Yushima Tenmangu
Access: Nearest staion is Yushima on the Chiyoda Line. Take Exit 3 and the left, turn left at the first intersection and walk down about 30 metres. It’s on the left hand side.

Now that you’ve come all the way, why don’t you look around the site?

Tribute to the Shito deity: the first rice sheaves of the harvest are presented as offerings, called *shinsen,* to the *kami*, deity or sacred power of Shintoism during agricultural and other festivals.

Yushima Tenmangu（湯島天満宮）a.k.a. Yushima Tenjin（湯島天神）was originally founded for Ameno Tajikaraono Mikoto in 458, and became one of Tenjin shrines in 1355 – Kitano Tenmangu in Kyoto is the most famous one.

‘Tenjin’ is the name of Michizane Sugawara (845-903), a scholar and a high government official. Like other Tenjin shrines, Yushima Tenjin is visited by students to pray for passing exams and inscribe ema – small wooden plaques – with petitions for success in exams, esp. entrance exams.

Among lots of ema, you will find Michizane on a cow. A cow, a typical feature of a Tenjin shrine, is believed to be the servant of the deity.

In the precincts of the shrine, there is a bronze cow, which is known as nade ushi (a cow to stroke). People believe that touching or stroking the cow will cure physical illness, and that is the reason why its head and forehead are so shiny.

You will also see plum trees in the garden and bonsai as well.

Tenjin is strongly related to plum because Michizane had always favoured the trees and blossoms (There is a legend about him and his tree, called ‘Flying Plum Tree‘), so ‘plum’ became a crest of the shrines.

Strolling in the precincts, you might come across a wedding ceremony.

Would you like to try omikuji, sacred lot?

If the fortune telling is not a good one, tie it around branches of a pine tree or some such. If good, keep it in your purse or wallet!

Hope you enjoy umeshu and the visit.

More about Umeshu:
Umeshu seminar in London last year
Umeshu made with whiskey by Suntory produsing Hakushu, Yamazaki, Hibiki whisky

More about Tenjin, read the post of one of my blogger friends.

Shimanami – Onomichi

Last month, I made a quick visit to so-called ‘the Aegean Sea of Orient’. The area has been famous for its scenic beauty, but what made it more popular as a tourist destination is the Nishiseto Expressway opened in 1999, known as the Setouchi Shimanami Kaido or just Shimanami Kaido (‘shima-nami’ refers sequence of islands and ‘kai-do’ (海道), sea route. The route connects Honshu, Japan’s main island, to the island of Shikokua with a 60 kilometer-long toll road passing over smaller islands in the Seto Inland Sea (Setonaikai).

There are two other land connections between Shikoku and Honshu, the Seto Ohashi/Seto-Chuo Expressway and the Kobe–Awaji–Naruto Expressway. However, only the Shimanami Kaido is traversable by foot or bicycle. That is the reason why so many cycle lovers and tourists head to the area in order to push pedals enjoying one of the most stunning sceneries in Japan.

The Shimanami Kaido runs from Onomichi on the Honsu side leading across the six islands, Mukaishima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Omishima, Hakatajima and Oshima, to Imabari on Shikoku.

Ikuchijima and Tatara Ohashi Bridge – view from Omishima

Hakata-Oshima Ohashi Bridge – view from Mt Karei, Oshima

Hakata-Oshima Ohashi Bridge – view from Omishima

This time of the year, a triathlon race(s) is/are held on the island(s): on Ikuchijima and Hakatajima in 2017 and on Hakatajima in 2018 (tomorrow, the 2nd of September! – I saw some triathletes checking out the bike course whilst I was there).

Before flying back to Tokyo, stopped by in Onomichi where Yasujiro Ono’s Tokyo Story was set. The film has attracted many since 1953 and a German film director, Wim Wenders is one of them.

I have always wondered where my favorite film (yes, of all times) Tokyo Story (or Tokyo monogatari in Japanese) actually takes place, except in Tokyo, of course. Yasujiro Ozu’s masterpiece from 1953 depicts a small seaside fishing town in which the story begins and ends. An old couple departs from there, in order to visit their kids in the big city one last time. After their return, the old woman dies, and her husband is left alone. Eventually someone told me that this coastal town was called Onomichi, in the South of Japan. So one day my wife and I made the reverse journey and traveled from Tokyo to Onomichi where we stayed for a week.

— Wim Wenders, Journey to Onomichi (source: Wim Wenders)

Got off Shimanami Liner, bus services between Fukuyama and Imabari, at Innoshima Ohashi for a local bus to Onomichi Staion. Instead of the terminal, alighted at Onomichi Gakuen on Mukaishima, and walked down to a small port to take a ferryboat for Onomichi.

100 yen (single journey) for a passenger

Left my luggage at the station and explored the town with many temples, steep slops and stone steps for the first time in ages – actually Onomichi is quite familiar to me.

Unfortunately I had to take a 11:11 train to Mihara, then a bus for Hiroshima Airport, so I had no time for Onomichi Ramen 😦
It was not the best, but luckily I had a bowl at the airport.

———-

A bit about the local food.

I love takikomi gohan, Japanese seasoned steamed rice with meat, fish, vegetables etc. Above all, the rice cooked with tako (octopus), tai (sea bream) and anago (saltwater eel) from the Seto Inland Sea are my favourites – not mixed up all together but each.

Citrus fruit, especially lemons and mikan mandarin oranges, is grown in those islands and they are good quality.

Amochinmi‘s Onomichi Ramen（阿藻珍味尾道ラーメン）is a packaged ramen with fresh uncooked ramen noodles, but this is really tasty! I get some whenever I come across in Hiroshima.

Click here for more about Shimanami and Onomici.

Octopus Salad and Croatia

I was going to post this recipe earlier – before the summer holiday season started – and to write about my trip to Croatia in 2017, esp. about Croatian wine…. Oh well, the summer is still going on and the salad is perfect for hot days. As for the wine, which shall follow later on, the information would be of help to the future visitors, anyway.

Last year on Hvar Island, I had scrumptious salad as I mentioned on Sardine Escabeche and Croatia.

This is the Salata od Hobotnice, or Dalmatian octopus salad.

The restaurant staff wouldn’t tell me the recipe (of course!), so I imitated it adding my own taste.

Ingredients

(for 3-4 servings as appetiser)

200 g boiled octopus*, cut into pieces
200 g tinned chickpea, drained and rinsed
160 g cherry tomato, halved or quartered
100 g cucumber, diced
100 g red onion, thinly sliced
1-1½ tbsp caper (preserved in vinegar), drained well and patted dry
1 tsp garlic clove, minced
3 tbsp white wine vinegar (I used acidity 6%)
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1-1½ tbsp flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped
1 dried bay leaf, crushed into small pieces
¼ tsp dried mint flakes
salt and pepper, to taste

½-1 lemon, cut into wedges
(optional: extra-virgin oil and flat-leaf parsley, to garnish)

Note: * See the bottom of this blog post.

Method

In a bowl, combine all the ingredients (First, add 1 tbsp of the capers and the parsley, and add more if necessary.) except the lemon, and mix well.
Chill in fridge for 30-60 minutes.
Drain well and put in plates with the lemon wedges, and garnish with the parsley. At table, squeeze lemon juice over the salad, and drizzle olive oil over if desired. Bon appétit!

my cooking whilst in Dubrovnik: mussels from Gruž Market cooked in Pošip (Croatian white grape variety) wine

I should have paired Pošip wine with the Salata od Hobotnice!

How to prepare and cook octopus

How to prepare and make boiled octopus

How to cook a tender octopus

If you preder to make it tender like tako for sushi, massage fresh raw octopus with handfuls of natural sea salt as Jiro mentions in Jiro Dreams of Sushi (c. 1:10-2:00).

How to prepare and cook tako sashimi on You Tube

Maybe massaging for 15-30 minutes should be fine, and then rinse well under running water. Boil water in a medium pan, add the octopus with some salt and simmer for 3-5 minutes. Stick skewer through thickest part of a tentacle. When the point goes through without finding rubbery resistance, it’s done. Put the octopus into a bowl of ice-cold water and drain once cool.

Sake Fair 2018

FYI
If you happen to be around in Tokyo this coming Saturday, why don’t you try Sake Fair 2018 in Ikebukuro?

Click here for the detailed information.

There is another option: the 1st Sake Tasting Fair organised by Tokyo University of Agriculture.

Not sure yet, but I might pop in the university…. 🙂

For the further info, click here and/or here (in English).

Sekitei Ryokan Inn – Miyahama Onsen, Hiroshima

Last February, I made a quick visit to Hiroshima for a family gathering. It was an auspicious occasion, so I booked a room for lunch at Sekitei which is famous for its rooms, garden and cuisine.

Click here for the tripadvisor reviews (photo from Sekitei website)

Sekitei, a traditional Japanese ryokan inn with a good reputation near Miyajima, is very popular among both the locals and tourists, so advanced booking is a must. Luckily, I could get my hands on the very last room/slot.

View from our room, 大観 (annex *Taikan* )

Before the lunch, we stepped out to the manicured Japanese garden for a stroll.

It was a chilly winter day with some snow and the garden was colourless, yet still pleasant to stroll around. Once winter is gone, it becomes bright with flowers and green leaves.

This time of the year, satsuki and fuji are in bloom.

五月 or *Satsuki* azalea bloom from May to June; the name “Satsuki” in Japanese is reference to their blooming period, the fifth month of the Asian lunar calendar. (Wikipedia)

I had ordered a kaiseki course menu for the special occasion.

先付　*sakizuke*, appetizer: anago sushi wrapped in bamboo leave and Chinese cabbage mousse

椀物　*wanmono,* soup course: oyster with vegetables and maitake mushroom

造里/向付　*tsukuri/mukozuke*, sashimi dish: sea bream, cuttlefish, shrimp etc.

煮物　*nimono*, simmered dish: bamboo root, *satoimo* eddoe etc.

酢物　*sunomono,* vinegar marinade: monkfish liver, spring onion etc.

食事/飯物 *shokuji/hanmono*, rice dish: anago meshi (grilled saltwater eel with rice)

水菓子　*mizugashi,* dessert: custard pudding with matcha ice cream

After pleasing and satisfying meal, some of us enjoyed dipping in the onsen at 500 yen pp – it was a bit rush though as we were supposed to vacate the room by 14.45 (the lunch plan, 11.00 – 14.45).

We were all full but couldn’t resist Anago Meshi Bento from Ueno restaurant, their sister restaurant, to take away. Anago meshi is one of my favourites – somehow I am not into unagi, freshwater eel although both look alike! Anago from Setonaikai Inlandsea is superb!

It may be a good idea to order the bento at Sekitei if you don’t want to queue up for anago meshi at Ueno near Miyajimaguchi. If you are going to Miyajima and don’t mind standing still in a queue, try Fujitaya – oh, I didn’t know the restaurant had been awarded one Michelin star!! It was ages ago that I tried their anago meshi but clearly remember how scrumptious it was!

We were all happy with the place, meal, staff and service and left Sekitei hoping to come back and stay overnight someday.

En route to Hiroshima Airport, I popped in Miyajima (no time for Fujitaya and of course, no room in my stomach!!)

One more thing – about tipping. There is no tipping custom in Japan, however, there exists old one called kokorozuke（心付け）. It is usually practiced at pricey ryokans, and to be given to nakai or a room attendant on arrival at your room. Kokorozuke should be a small amount in an envelop (1,000 – 3,000 yen, depends on number of guests and duration of stay) or a small gift, like a box of confectionery. Don’t worry, nowadays there are many who don’t know this custom, even Japanese, so they wouldn’t expect people from outside Japan.

石亭　Sekitei

For more photos or booking through booking.com, click here.

“Located in the Miyahama hot-spring area, Sekitei features spacious Japanese-style accommodations with traditional interiors…. Guests can relax in the hot-spring baths and enjoy the seasons at the Japanese garden. A free shuttle is available from JR Oonoura Train Station, which is a 5-minute drive away.

Some spacious rooms are located in the main tower, while many are individual cottages with 2 floors and a private wooden bath. Most rooms come with tatami (woven-straw) floors and Japanese futon bedding. Each room has garden or ocean views.

A traditional multi-course meal is served for dinner in the guests’ room. A Japanese set-menu is offered for breakfast, which guests can choose to dine in their rooms or in the dining room.

Sekitei Inn is a 15-minute drive from Miyajimaguchi Ferry Terminal. JR Hiroshima Train Station is a 50-minute drive away. ” — Booking.com

(other than mine, the photos from Sekitei website/Instagram)

Cinema Paradiso and Cefalù, Sicily

I was invited to a small film screening party at a Sicilian restaurant the other day. The film that the owner/chef had chosen for the first screening was one of the most beloved films among many: Nuovo Cinema Paradiso, or Cinema Paradiso (1988).

No mater how many times I see the film, it touches my heart and makes me sob every time. (I prefer the shorter version. What about you?)

Nuovo Cinema Paradiso was mainly filmed in Palazzo Adriano, where the town and street-scapes remain the same and you can easily recognise where the scenes were shot. You might already know; however, Cefalù is also one of the filming locations.

Cefalù is located on the northern coast of Sicily, about 70 km east of the provincial capital, Palemo and 185 km west of Messina. Cefalù is known as a popular seaside destination, but its beautiful sandy beach stretching alongside the town is not the only reason to attract people.

Duomo di Cefalù, a Norman style cathedralerected in 1131, is another tourist attraction. Seen from a distance, the building with two spires dominates the skyline of the surrounding medieval town (See the photo above ).

Whilst the exterior of the Duomo is simple, the interior, especially the apse and choir are richly coloured and decorated with elaborate Byzantine mosaics and eighteenth century stucco. The large Christ Pantocrator on the gold background dominating the apse, above the Madonna, archangels and Apostles is particularly outstanding like the ones of Cattedrale di Monreale and Cappella Palatina.

Lavatoio, Saracen washhouse fed by a natural spring, down on Via Vittorio Emanuele is another sight worth a visit.

Towering above the Duomo and the town centre is the massive crag called the Rocca.

The ascent leading to the top of the hill is quite steep, but it’s worthwhile climbing!

I have visited Cefalù twice – stopped by on the way travelling from Lipari to Palermo in 2014, and made a day trip from Palermo in 2016. During the first visit, I explored the lovely medieval town and around to figure out the filming locations.

Outdoor Cinema Scene (3:13-)

Elena’s apartment

Giancaldo Station Scene

Some believe the scene was shot at Cefalù Station, but actually it was at Lascari, one station away from Cefalù.

When leave the island, I usually take Alitalia at Palermo, which always play Love Theme from Nuevo Cinema Paradiso before taking off. It makes me about to cry and I always cry out inside: ‘Stop playing that! I don’t wanna leave!!’

For the second screening, the chef is going to play Il Postino, or The Postman (1996), set in Salina, Sicily (filmed mostly on Procida, though). Unfortunately, however, I cannot make it that day…. What a shame!!!!

Every moment has its meaning.
Every word has its place.

Merry Christmas to you all

Ich wünsche Ihnen allen fröhliche Weihnachten!

— Rotwein Wanderer back on the road/Rotweinwanderweg

Caltagirone, Sicily

Caltagirone is located in approximately 70 km southwest of Catania, and it is just a 1.5-2 hour journey from the airport by pullman. I made a quick visit after Agrigento and before heading to Lipari in 2014.

Caltagirone is one of the Sicily’s ceramics centres producing particularly maiolica and terra-cotta wares, and its most famous landmark is the Scalinata di Santa Maria del Monte, a stairway of 142 steps running up a hill to the church of Santa Maria del Monte.

From my window:

What makes the staircase most significant and beautiful is that each of the steps has unique hand-painted ceramic tiles with two or three different designs.

I have to go back to see Infiorita held during the last two weeks of May when the steps are covered by an enormous floral display, or/and Illuminata on the 15^th of August in which thousands of candles are lighted up and decorate the Scalinata at night.

MUST STAY in Caltagirone

Tre Metri Sopra il Cielo

Stunning view over the old town from the terrace

I usually have just some fruit for breakfast, but how could I have resisted????

I’m sorry to tell you this, but the B&B is located at the halfway up the Scalinata – just right off the stairs….. Your arm muscles might ache – like mine did – after carrying your luggage up steps, but it is worth staying at Tre Metri Sopra il Cielo!

MUST EAT in Caltagirone

La Scala

The owner of the B&B recommended La Scala at the bottom of the stairway.

Avoiding seafood as the town is far away from the sea, I ordered typical local dishes.

Loved their fresh pasta with wild fennel, salsiccia and tomato!!

Penne alla Scala (Primo piatto con pasta fresca con finocchietto, selvatico, salsiccia, pomodoro e mollica abbrustolita e ricotta fresca)

Umeshu Matsuri – Plum Wine Festival in Tokyo

If you live or happen to be around in Tokyo this long weekend, why don’t you pop in Yushima Tenmangu, or Yushima Tenjin to sip umeshu, Japanse plum wine?

If you find your favourit(s), you can buy it/them!!

I bought a bottle of 梅申春秋, Baishin Shunju from my fav brewery!

Now that you’ve come all the way, why don’t you look around the site?

Among lots of ema, you will find Michizane on a cow. A cow, a typical feature of a Tenjin shrine, is believed to be the servant of the deity.

You will also see plum trees in the garden and bonsai as well.

Strolling in the precincts, you might come across a wedding ceremony.

Would you like to try omikuji, sacred lot?

If the fortune telling is not a good one, tie it around branches of a pine tree or some such. If good, keep it in your purse or wallet!

Hope you enjoy umeshu and the visit.

More about Umeshu:
Umeshu seminar in London last year
Umeshu made with whiskey by Suntory produsing Hakushu, Yamazaki, Hibiki whisky

More about Tenjin, read the post of one of my blogger friends.

Sardine Escabeche and Croatia

The Nanbanzuke recipe I posted earlier this month intended to allude this Sardine Escabeche recipe.

I came across savur, a.k.a. ‘savor’ or ‘saor’, Croatian escabeche when I was making my ‘To-Eat in Croatia’ list picking out the local dishes from Taste of Croatia. It describes savur that ‘Traditional way of preparing and preserving fish, usually sardines and anchovies, that is very popular in regions where ancient Venetian republic ruled but very similar recipe can be found even in distant Japan’, which attracted my interest on the propagation: the Portuguese or Spanish dish was passed on eastward – e.g. to the Mediterranean regions, Philippines, Japan etc. as I mentioned on the Nanbanzuke post (also spread westward to their colonies in the new continent as well, though).

Unfortunately, I had no opportunity to try escabeche in Croatia, so I made it myself referencing a recipe on the web and adding some changes.

Ingredients

(for 2 servings)

6 butterflied sardine fillet
salt and pepper
15 g plain flour
15 g cornstarch
50 ml olive oil, to shallow fry

[Marinade]
100 ml water
75 ml white wine vinegar (acidity 6%)
60 ml white wine (I used medium bodied Riesling)
½ tsp caster sugar
60 g red onion, finely sliced
30 g carrot, julienned
30 g celery, julienned
3 small sun-dried tomatoes, rinsed and chopped
½ tbsp salted capers, rinsed
1 garlic clove, crushed
¼ tsp fennel seeds
1 dried bay leaf
fresh rosemary springs
fresh sage leaves
1 tbsp juice of fresh lemon

extra virgin olive oil, to garnish
sweet paprika, to garnish (optional)
celery leaf or flat leaf parsley, to garnish (optional)

Method

Season the fish with salt and pepper, and lightly dust with a mix of the flour and starch. Heat the olive oil in a pan and fry over medium heat, skin-side down until lightly brown and drain excess oil. Set them aside in a wide non-reactive tray.
Place the celery, carrot, onion, sun-dried tomatoes, capers, bay leaf, rosemary, sage, fennel seeds, sugar, vinegar, water and wine in a non-reactive saucepan, bring to the boil over medium heat, then reduce the heat and leave to simmer gently for a few minutes. Remove from the heat, allow to cool slightly, and pour over the fish. Set aside to cool completely, and scatter the lemon juice before place in a fridge. Leave for at least 2 hours or overnight to marinate.
On a platter, top with sardines, garnish with the paprika and green leaves, then drizzle with extra virgin olive oil when serve.

I tried as many dishes as I listed whilst in Croatia this summer and learnt that Croatian cuisine has received influences from neibouring cultures and the countries ruled the territory of Croatia throughout history. It has similarities with Italian, Austrian, Hungarian, Turkish etc., but each region has its own distinct culinary traditions. I stayed mostly in Split and Dubrovnik, the coastal Croatia, and enjoyed lots of seafood cooked in traditional Dalmatian way.

Seafood Dishes

Škampi na Buzaru or ‘Skampi Buzara‘ @ Villa Spiza in Split – this place is getting very popular and takes no reservations. Go earlier to avoid the long queue, prob. by 7.00 pm at latest.

Crni Rižoto: black cuttlefish risotto @ Amfora near Gruž Port in Dubrovnik – loved the wild fennel adittion! Their Miso Fish Soup and Chilled Fennel Cream Soup looked nice.

Meat Dishes

Pašticada, so called ‘Queen of Dalmatian Cuisine’, served with potato gnocchi – meat dish but one of the most popular Dalmatian dishes.

I tried Ćevapčići in Bosnia Herzegovina where it is considered a national dish. Ćevapi or Ćevapčići is well known and eaten in all parts of the former Yugoslavia once under the Ottoman Empire. Next time Dubrovnik, I will try Taj Mahal (funny, it’s not an Indian restaurant!) near Lapad, not in the Old Town, to explore more about Bosnian food. Sofra in Zagreb was pretty good.

‘National Plate’ @ Sadrvan in Mostar – dolma, japrak, ćevapčići, lepinja, ajvar, đuveč, Bosanski Kolacic

Those I mentioned above were all nice, however, what I enjoyed more was the food cooked with bare minimum of seasoning and really brings out the full original flavour of ingredients.

The octopus salad at Konoba Menego on Hvar Island is highly recommended. All the ingredients were fresh and tasty, especially the caper! They don’t sell their homemade capers, unfortunately…. Instead, they advised me to find ones preserved in vinegar at farmers’ market. Their cheese and dry-cured ham platter looked yum.

In Dalmatia, fresh seafood grilled over open flame is superb. It is simple, but tastes different as it is cooked with fresh olive oil and Mediterranean herbs over olive tree or grapevine wood fire, which gives it deep flavour. So the grilled meat and vegetables are flavourful, too.

grilled sea bass @ Miličić Winery

Lady Pi-Pi, one of MUST places in Dubronik, offers delicious BBQ food at reasonable price considering to the location (within the Wall), a great view over the Old Town and good atmosphere under the grape trellis. They don’t accept reservations, so I avoided dinner time and dropped in just before lunch time (breakfast is served until 11:00). I had to wait a bit for a table to be ready, but there wasn’t a queue.

left: my lunch – grilled squid @ Lady Pi-Pi

You absolutely must try peka while in Dalmatia! Peka is a slowly baked dish with meat or seafood along with vegetables in a pot or tray, but it is actually a method of cooking, and also a dome or bell-shaped ceramic or metal lid. The dish is also called ispod čripnje, or ‘under the bell’ – food cooked under the bell-shaped lid in fireplace.

dome-shaped peka -(souce: Travels with Tricia)

The lid is covered with hot coals while the ingredients are being slowly cooked in their own juices under the ‘bell’. That is why they are moist and flavoursome. It is said that it probably is the oldest way of food preparation in the Adriatic, even Mediterranean area – according to some archaeological researches, the artifacts of peka was found in the layers of Bronze Age.

It may be a primitive way of cooking, but the result is more than satisfying!! Even the potatoes accompanied by were moreish!

I wish I could have joined sunset tuk tuk tour followed by dinner at Konoba Dubrava, one of the most popular peka places in Dubrovnik! Unfortunately, it was not available for just one person…. Anyway, I had a chance to try some, which was divine!

Some locals I met while in Dubrovnik dreamily said octopus peka is scrumptious and much tastier than meat one. It was too late to notice some restaurants near Polače Port in Mljet serve octopus peka – little time was left until departure back to Dubrovnik…. Peka usually needs to be ordered in advance and takes some time to be prepared. Stop by and ask restaurant staff before you visit the Mljet National Park if you make a day trip to the island.

octopus peka (source: Croatia Travel Guide & Blog)

In Dubrovnik, I rented a holiday apartment halfway between the Old Town and Gruž Port – less expensive and much quieter than staying inside the Wall. There are very frequent bus services to/from the centre until late, however, it was just about 20 minute walk and very safe even at night. I sometimes walked down for a glass of wine or a scoop of ice cream enjoying cool evening air after dinner at the apartment.

There are fish and green markets near the port, where I popped in almost every day to get some fresh fruits for breakfast, and vegetables etc. for my cooking. I cannot recall well, but I think the mussels were about 15-20 kunas per 1kg.

my cooking: mussels cooked in Pošip (Croatian white grape variety) wine

Also made my lemony pasta with ricotta filled raviori instead of adding the cheese (click here for the recipe)

Dalmatian cheese and dry-cured ham also are a must, which I shall mention when I write about Croatian wines.

Sicily and Lemony Ricotta Fettuccine with Tomato & Pistachio

This Fettuccine recipe is adopted from the Raviolini al Limone I enjoyed whilst in Enna for the Holy Monday last year.

Instead of ricotta filled ravioli, I used fettuccine and added the cheese into the sauce. Also scattered with ground pistachios to make it Sicilian!!

Ingredients

(for 2 servings)

200 g dried fettuccine
2 liter water
2 tsp salt

2 tbsp olive oil
400 g fully ripe tomato, finely chopped
200 ml water from boiled fettuccine
100 ml heavy cream (whipping cream, fat 35%)
2 tbsp ground pistachio (pistachio powder/flour)
100 g ricotta cheese
2 tbsp juice of lemon, freshly squeezed
a few pinches of lemon zest (organic unwaxed), freshly grated
ground white pepper (to taste)

flat leaf parsley (to sprinkle)
unsalted pistachio, roughly chopped (to sprinkle)

Method

Bring a large pot of the water to the boil. Salt the water and cook fettuccine until 2-3 min short of ‘al dente’. Reserve the cooking liquid for the sauce.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a pan over medium-high heat. Put in the tomato and fry for a few minutes stirring consistently.
Transfer the fettuccine into the pan and add the cooking liquid. Increase the heat to high and mix well by stirring consistently for 1-2 min or until the liquid thickened. Make sure it doesn’t get dry. Add some more cooking water if required.
Reduce the heat to medium. Pour in the heavy cream and pistachio stirring constantly as it thickens. Add the ricotta, lemon juice and zest, season with the white pepper and toss it well. Once mixed, turn off the heat immediately. Taste it and add salt or some more lemon juice if required.
Plate the pasta, and sprinkle with the chopped pistachio and parsley.

Calascibetta – view from Enna

MUST VISIT whilst in ENNA

Villa Romana del Casale, a large and elaborate Roman villa or palace located about 3 km from the town of Piazza Armerina, Sicily. Excavations have revealed one of the richest, largest and varied collections of Roman mosaics in the world, for which the site has been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The villa and artwork contained within date to the early 4th century AD. (source: Wikipedia)

The Villa is famous for so-called ‘Bikini Girls’ mosaic, but for me, the most impressive one was the Giants.

The mosaic with the Giants shot by the arrows of Hercules is one of the most expressive in the entire residence. The figures are isolated and emerge clearly from the white background, heightening the drama of their poses.

The dying Giants have powerful bodies with reddish brown skin and are called serpent-footed because their lower limbs end in the form of sinuous snakes.

As in the central field, Hercules is not shown in the scene, which instead depicts the result of his vanquishing of enemies who dared challenge Olympus.

How to get to Villa Romana del Casale

1. to Piazza Armerina

by Pullman (intercity bus) – arrives at Piazza Marescalchi
from Enna and Palermo – by SAIS
from Catania, Catania AP, Caltagirone – by Interbus

2. from Piazza Armerina to Villa Romana del Casale

by local bus: Villabus (1st May – 30th Sept. only)
by taxi: leaves from Piazza Marescalchi (main bus station)
If you cannot find any taxies, try the bar at the piazza/near the bus station. They have the phone numbers and will probably call for you if you don’t speak Italian (so I could manage to take a taxi!!). Make sure to book for return. The return fare (both ways) costed about 20 euros as of March 2013.

Click here for more access tips

MUST STAY in ENNA

This newly opened B&B, P&G Design is run by the same owner of Bianko & Bianko I mentioned on my post, Chickpea & Almond Biscuits and Sicily. She kindly sent me the information for my future visit to Enna.

MUST EAT in ENNA

Centrale was recommended by the owner, whose restaurant tips never disappoint me 🙂
Antipast al Buffet is a MUST as well as Raviolini al Limone!!

Croatian foods will follow later on….

	sunnydaysinseattle on Arros de Favas – Fava Be…
	Rotwein Wanderer on Arros de Favas – Fava Be…
	Karen on Arros de Favas – Fava Be…
	Ronit Penso Tasty Ea… on Arros de Favas – Fava Be…
	Rotwein Wanderer on Arros de Favas – Fava Be…
	Ronit Penso Tasty Ea… on Arros de Favas – Fava Be…

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